Danpaati River Lodge: where kindness makes you feel like family

It seems like it's starting to become a tradition at the beginning of the year. Finding a spot in Suriname to get away for a few days. And as you can guess by the tittle I had the opportunity to find my way to Danpaati River Lodge in Sipaliwini. I have been reading about this getaway for years and know the owners Sirano and Tessa very well by now. Only when you have a hectic schedule, you cannot easily find days to enjoy some much needed rest. The first week of the year is perfect timing tho.

There you have it!

And so on the first of the 3 days getaway I had to get up very early in the morning. The first part of the trip I knew all too well, since I've been to Ajtonie many times. Getting up early to leave early is a must. I figured that in this way you could enjoy the entire day. So after getting into a bus at 6.30 and two stops later we arrived around 11.00 o'clock at Atjonie. Man, I've never seen this place so extremely hectic. Busses, cars, humans and boats were all 'fighting' to get done what's needed to be done. As I understand later it all had to do with the end of the school vacation and people getting back to work in the city and the other way around.

We finally get in the boat, well a small canoe where a life vest is a must. The water in the river is high so the expectation is that the trip will be without adventure. Little do we know? After the first 45 minutes our 'driver' gets stuck on a rock in a sula 'a water rapid'. Everyone had to get in the back of the boat for us to be pulled from the rock. A third 'driver' parks his boat, takes of his clothes, jumps in the water, swims like a fish and helps us pull tru. That was the hick up of 15 minutes. The beautiful view from the forest, villages and the people working the water as part of their livelihood makes you forget all your troubles, the air cleans your lungs and your head and makes space for new fresh ideas.

Finally, after 2,5 hours in the boat -ehm...I really didn't know it took that long to get to Danpaati- we reache our destination. As usual the women and men had some dancing and songs for us, and we entered the island with a smile. That smile became much brighter, when we could put our teeth in the pompoen soep aka pumpkin soup. Must say, it was my first try, but a good one. A cup of coffee afterwards completed the arrival.

Me and Akoafesy at the entrance of the village Pikin Slee in Sipaliwini.

Stefano brings us to our cabin. There is a mix up, because we are supposed to be in cabin 14, but with the locked door and the bags inside it became clear we got the wrong one. Our friend for the next days Akoafesy -yes a very special name- joins in to help us out. He runs back to the reception and runs back. That's where the laughing and sociability starts. His name means 'he will be a winner'; a name to remember, a young man with a inspiring story. He and Stefano are nephews and from the village Dan across from Danpaati. They love their job and that is what you feel right away.

When you can't choose between working and hammocking.

We get into our cabin and my eyes find the hammock. Ten minutes later it's two hours later. Yes the hammock gives me the rest I need. I love sleeping in these things. If I could sleep in one during nights in the city I would definitely do so!
But I must say...the traffic on the river is ... well a lot. The busy traffic makes me think like bees taking turn to pass by your ear. The traffic seems to fight with the water working the riverside that supposed to be louder. But I must say the combination of those two; the good meal and the hammock are the perfect cocktail to fall asleep.

I jump up just in time to go on the island walk with Stefano. No, the island has two Stefano's. So I baptize them into Stefano no. 1 and no. 2. We learn about the name of the island, the vegetation, there is a swimming pool and a swimming river, the previous store and end up at the most Northern point of the island. There is the mark of how high the water was back in 2006, during one of the worst floods our interior ever had. Almost two persons high. Just like in other villages, also the people living and working in Danpaati had to move to higher places.

Back in the cabin I work for an hour, go to diner and return to the hammock. It's almost ten o'clock at night but the river traffic is still very hectic. But Dan has a party, because of the wining of an award of their sister Danpaati. One of the most famous Saamaka artists is performing. As a guest we can join, I decide to return to that hammock, I read some and start making my plans for 2018. The night is quiet, but the music is there. After an hour I return to the cabin and sleep like a ... baby!

Day 2

Such a beautiful sight in the mornings while watching sunrise.

Seeing the sun coming up while lying in a hammock with a cup of coffee... is there a better way to wake up? After an hour I decide to shower..well ehm...no such thing. No water from the shower. So I do the next best thing...return to the hammock. It takes 3 hours before the water returns. And no, no complaining. And yes, I could have showered in the river, but no I was too lazy. Or was the hammock too cozy? :)

Entrance for the village Pikin Slee seen from the Surinameriver. In this village the Saamaka Museum is situated.

I can finally make a trip to Pikin Slee, a 20 mins drive from Danpaati. I have heard, read and spoke about that museum and so I am very eager to experience it firsthand. After walking tru the village, led by Akoafesy -a good moment to learn some Saamaka- we first visit the workspace where a young man is crafting wood. In the museum we receive the information from Joany. No pictures are aloud, which I find to be an excellent idea. The story of the Saramaccaners is impressive, their attributes interesting and their habits raise a lot of questions and stories. Please do visit this Saamaka Museum whenever you get the chance. I visit the store, leave a donation and a note and then its time to head back to Danpaati.

A wood crafter.

No shoes aloud in the museum.

We enjoy our lunch, I get my afternoon nap -it's been months I'm able to do that for two consecutive days- and then decide to dive in the river. Wow...as usual a great cold place to be in. I stay in for as long as possible.
After diner we get spoiled with sexy seketi songs, the banamba songs where the hips do the work and where you can dance along with the women during the awasa. The completion of a great second day on the island.

The energy you receive from this river water is unexplainable. Go experience it yourself.

Day 3

I just like that I felt like a wealthy Sheik thanks to the sun.

I must say, I never knew our maroon brothers and sisters love to party. Last night I woke up a couple of times listening to the music of a village of which I later hear it's 15 minutes away. But still, my rest was great and I do the same morning routine as the day before. After breakfast, I work some more before preparing to leave the island.

If you have never been, try visiting Danpaati on your next trip to Suriname. Even if you are a Surinamer living in Suriname this visit is one you want to put on your to-do-list. I've experienced first hand why they keep winning prices. If there is a complain, you are listened to and a solution is being sought. For me, Akoafesy was a personal tour guide. His story is one to respect. He has a lot of humor and makes sure you feel at home. Renate, who is in charge of it all, makes time for a chat now and then and Afinumindi is serving the food while dancing, singing and laughing.

Gaantangi fii Stefano 1, Stefano 2, Afinumindi, Renate and Akoafesy for making my stay at Danpaati one to write down and remember. I will definitely return...for a much longer stay!
Always stay true to yourselves.

Love,
Rosita

A special thanks to Sirano Zaalman and his team at Access Travel Suriname.
More information about Danpaati: https://www.facebook.com/FB.Danpaati/